Pete Roberts was a member of CAMRA’s East London and City branch whose loves were real ale and rambling, which he would often combine. After his death the branch instigated an annual ramble in his honour. Recent rambles have included Windsor, Hampstead and Epping Forest. The crucial criterion for each ramble is that it includes a selection of interesting pubs along the way! This year we were planning to go to Winchester but, because of engineering works on South Western Railway, we decided to change the location to somewhere nearer to home and visit some historic pubs along the Thames. The chosen date was Saturday 9 September, which turned out to be one of the hottest days of the year! We had a good turn out with members from ELAC, Enfield & Barnet and South East London branches in attendance.
Our first port of call was the Mayflower in Rotherhithe. This nautically themed pub celebrates the ship Mayflower which, in 1620, set sail from the nearby landing steps for the historic journey to New England, carrying the Pilgrim Fathers. From here we walked along the Thames Path and, in the distance, we had a view of Tower Bridge being opened. Our second pub was the Old Justice. After being closed for around five years, this classic 1930s pub reopened under its original name in February 2023. The interior, having previously been unlawfully removed and then reinstated by the freeholder, retains much of its original wood panelling, counter and bar-back.
We continued along the Thames Path past Butlers Wharf and crossed over Tower Bridge. From there we walked through St Katherine’s Dock to Wapping for our next pub, the Town of Ramsgate, a historic hostelry in the old docklands. It took its name from the fishermen of Ramsgate who would land their catch at nearby Wapping Old Stairs to avoid paying river taxes at Billingsgate. Next, a few metres inland from the river, was Turner’s Old Star, a traditional East End pub. When the painter J M W Turner inherited two cottages in the area, he converted them into a tavern and installed his mistress, Mrs Boot, as proprietor. He named the tavern the Old Star. In 1987 the property was extensively refurbished and, as a tribute to the great British painter, was renamed Turner’s Old Star. Further along Wapping High Street we came to the Prospect of Whitby. Built in 1520, it is the oldest riverside tavern with an original 400 year old stone floor and a hangman’s noose dangling on the river side of the pub.
From here, a few of us carried on walking by or close to the river past Limehouse Basin to Narrow Street and the Grapes, of which Sir Ian McKellan is co-leaseholder. This is another historic pub with a narrow bar and Thames side terrace.
The day went really well, with positive feedback from everybody. In summary, great pubs, good beer, a lovely walk and good company! Our thoughts now turn to where we should go next year! All members are, of course, always welcome to join us on our future rambles.
Andy Kinch