It has taken London fifty years to catch up with Paris in creating a bespoke cross-city rail network but it is finally happening; the first section of Crossrail, from Paddington to Abbey Wood, is due to open in the first half of this year. Eventually, it will be theoretically possible to travel from Shenfield and Abbey Wood in the east to Reading and Heathrow in the west without changing trains and, if you are the fortunate holder of a Freedom Pass, for no payment! (Ts & Cs apply!).
The Elizabeth Line, as it will be called, sees the opening of greatly expanded stations at Paddington, Bond Street and Tottenham Court Road, among others, only a few minutes apart, and this article provides a few pointers to pubs near these stations which should see increased trade.
The main entrance to Paddington is on the west side, next to Eastbourne Terrace. On emerging from the cavernous interior, turn right (north) along Eastbourne Terrace and the Prince of Wales is across the road. It is not a destination pub and won’t win any prizes for architecture but it has been in the middle of a building site for many years and deserves a quick visit. The interior is modern-ish, complete with railwayana, including a free-standing station clock. Spot the Ruddles County beermat. The benches outside catch the afternoon sun. There should be a Purity ale available, plus, possibly, London Pride or Greene King IPA.
Head back down Eastbourne Terrace, checking out the rather creepy animated clock outside no. 50, and turn right into Chilworth Street. Beyond Westbourne Terrace and Gloucester Terrace, the Cleveland Arms is tucked in on the right. There is a refurbishment going on at the time of writing and so any description would be a hostage to fortune but expect high ceilings and dark wood. There is highly likely to be something from St Austell plus Landlord and gourmet-standard food. The tiny outside terrace is pleasantly quiet.
Heading back to Paddington (main line) Station, the ever reliable Mad Bishop and Bear can be found up the escalators above the shopping area. The full range of Fuller’s beers, plus a guest or two, is the norm here and CAMRA members benefit from a 20% discount. There are very useful repeater boards for main line trains in and out, although eastbound Crossrail services will be so frequent that they probably won’t need featuring. Westbound should be every 10 to 15 minutes. Pigeons and customers alike appreciate the outside (but covered) tables.
They don’t actually stop you cutting through the Hilton Hotel (entrance on the mezzanine floor) to the front of the station but well-behaved visitors will go round to the eastern exit road and then head straight down London Street and Sussex Gardens to the Victoria, a CAMRA Good Beer Guide regular, (as is the Mad Bishop). Admire the well preserved Victorian décor, especially the bar-back, and check out the two ornate function rooms upstairs. The toilets are downstairs and, in quiet moments, you may hear the rumble of Crossrail trains in the tunnels beneath, as they swing east towards Bond Street. This station has had its opening delayed and may not enter operation at the same time as the others; completists can in the meantime trot down Stanhope Terrace to Lancaster Gate tube for two stops on the Central Line. Look out for evidence of the working stables nearby.
Exit Bond Street onto Oxford Street and turn left then right into Duke Street, on the east side of Selfridges. The Henry Holland is on the right. Holland was a Georgian architect whose many buildings feature on a poster. These include the Brighton Pavilion and so he must have had a sense of humour. The elegant art deco pub interior is of a piece, with wood panelling and period lighting. The ubiquitous London Pride is available, with Landlord and Holy Grail (‘Tempered over Burning Witches’) when surveyed. Gin lovers will appreciate the range of flavours in stock.
To find the Golden Eagle, which is not to be missed when in the area, turn right up Duke Street, right into Wigmore Street then left up Marylebone Lane to the corner of Bulstrode Street. The current GBG description contains the words ‘cosy’ and ‘timeless’; ‘unspoilt’ also applies. You will usually find London Pride and Tribute, plus a couple of guest beers.
To the south of Bond Street Station, using the new Davies Street exit, go south-east along South Molton Lane and cross Brook Street into Avery Row to find the Iron Duke on the left. Small but characterful, it is said to be the last remaining mews pub in Mayfair. There is no food on offer at the time of writing but the Fuller’s beers provide sustenance. The Duke is a very handy pit stop after the rigours of window shopping in New Bond Street.
Crossrail does not stop at Oxford Circus itself (and who can blame it?) but the eastern exit of Bond Street, at the north-west corner of Hanover Square, is actually closer to Oxford Circus! Head on to Tottenham Court Road (much improved from its days as a Victorian rat-hole) to find the Flying Horse across Oxford Street (cross carefully; some local cyclists appear to be red/green colour-blind). It is a standard Nicholson’s Inn, selling London Pride, Doom Bar and St Austell’s branded as Nicholson’s. Guest beers are sadly limited at present. The ornate frontage and interior merit study and the downstairs bar is often quiet despite the TV screens. A plaque there informs us about the St Giles slum formerly to the south: ‘St Giles, saint of lepers, beggars, cripples and those struck by misery’, although lepers were absent at the time of writing.
About the length of a Crossrail platform north along Tottenham Court Road, the Jack Horner stands appropriately enough on a corner (with Bayley Street), although Christmas Pie is inexplicably absent from the otherwise extensive menu. Converted from a Barclays Bank in 1994, money still crosses the counter of this Fuller’s Ale & Pie House; expect a wide range of their beers and smart décor. The booths on the TCR side, with swivelling windows, give a nod to the snob screens now sadly removed from many bars. This pub’s track-record in the GBG speaks for itself.
Then to our final pub: the Bloomsbury, at the junction where Shaftesbury Avenue peters out into New Oxford Street, a couple of blocks east of TCR via the new Centre Point exits. Another wood-panelled venue, this time, for a change, a Shepherd Neame house, albeit with only two of their beers at the time of my visit. Admire the stained glass windows.
There are plenty of buses along New Oxford Street; the next Crossrail Station is Farringdon, soon to be a vast interchange but beyond the scope of this article.
Caution: most London pubs are suffering the fallout from Covid with reduced beer ranges, reduced opening hours and staff shortages. The information here is given in good faith but reality may change at any moment. Check before you visit! Also be aware that prices are going up everywhere (including VAT on pub food); your correspondent was charged £18.50 for a glass of wine and a small scotch egg in a pub very close to Bond Street Station, which somehow escaped inclusion in this article.
Ian Collinson