Metroland revisited

On Saturday 19 October the London Pubs Group had a tour of some pubs in West Middlesex. We started at midday at the Queens Head in Pinner. This ex-Benskins pub is a Grade II-listed building with one star on CAMRA’s register of pubs with interiors of special national historic interest. The building dates from the 16th century but with many changes in subsequent centuries. Face-lifting around 1930 saw the external timbering revealed and mostly replaced.

The interior of the Queens Head

At the same time the interior was much modified and to this scheme belongs the bar counter with its sloping, vertical boarding. The 1930 arrangement consisted of two bars at slightly different levels, divided by a screen, most of which was removed in 1971. On the left was the saloon, which has impressive wall-panelling, dating back probably to the 17th or 18th century, plus a brick fireplace. The public bar was more simply appointed but also has a c.1930 fireplace. A notable feature is the ‘gallows’ inn-sign. Greene King IPA and Old Golden Hen, Rebellion IPA and Timothy Taylor Landlord are normally served here.
The second stop was at the Case is Altered in Eastcote. Also Grade II listed, this pub has two stars on the CAMRA register. It is also ex-Benskins. In its leafy surroundings, it is more like a country pub than a town one.

Part of the right-hand side may date back to the 16th century but the outside was mostly remodelled after a fire in 1891. Inside, there is a deliberate attempt to create an Olde Worlde feel. A reconstructed barn was linked to the pub and brought into use around 1990. Rebellion IPA and Twickenham Naked Ladies are normally served here.

The third pub was the ex-Courage Woodman in Ruislip. It isn’t statutorily listed but rates two stars on CAMRA’s register. It retains an intact two-room 1950s interior layout typical of the time.

The lounge has some rare fittings and was created out of what had previously been private accommodation. The counter is gently curved with a front of pink Formica divided by black strips and a pink Formica counter top that extends onto the main shelf of the bar-back. The pink colour has faded from the original bright red. The bar-back has a backing of mirror glass mosaic. This pub is in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide 2025. Fuller’s London Pride, Rebellion IPA and St Austell Proper Job are normally served here.

Next was the Greenwood in Northolt. Yet another Grade II listing, with three stars on our register, this is an inter-war ‘improved’ public house built in the Neo-Georgian style for Courage & Co in 1937. Little altered and retaining five rooms, it was impressively restored by Wetherspoon’s in 2016 after being closed for six years. The main bar retains its original counter with the end section reinstated by Wetherspoon’s.

The bar-back is also original. Windows advertising ‘Luncheons & Snacks’ and ‘Wines & Spirits’ survive. The lounge bar in the middle, which is slightly opened up to the main bar, also retains its inter-war counter and Art Deco bar-back fitting. This room is lit by a leaded glass skylight and has panelling on the walls. There is a mosaic-tiled fireplace with an Art Deco wood surround. On the east side is the Green Room, where the original bar counter and bar-back are retained but redundant. The Assembly Room has been converted into another seating area but retains its stage. Original timber doors with brass handles remain. Investigation has not revealed the name of the architect and the only clue is that another pub, the former Granville Hotel in Uxbridge Road, Ealing, was opened by Courage in 1938 and tenanted to the same catering company. Press reports do not refer to the name of an architect so it may be that an in-house designer drew up plans for both pubs. Greene King Abbot and Ruddles Best, Sharp’s Doom Bar, and five changing ales are normally served here.

Our penultimate visit was to the Castle in Harrow. Once again, this has a Grade II listing and three stars on the CAMRA register. Rebuilt in 1901, this Fuller’s pub has kept most of its original layout and fittings. Outside is an attractive ‘The Castle’ ironwork over the main entrance and a mosaic floor panel, also with the pub name. The front bare boarded bar retains its original curving counter. The front bar is separated from the rear one by a part-glazed partition almost reaching the ceiling which has a low service door that once allowed staff to get from one part of the pub to another. The rear bar also has a vestibule entrance with leaded glass panels. This bare wood-floor room retains its curving counter and bar-back shelves on a glazed series of windows surrounding a hatch serving the rear room. There are two small rooms on the right. The front one has a window from the servery ‘for supervision purposes’. The rear right small room is served via a large hatch to the servery. The dado panelling looks modern and the room has lost its fireplace. At the back, a door leads to a large room described as a Billiard Room. This pub is in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide 2025. Dark Star Hophead and Fuller’s ESB and London Pride are normally served here.

Photo (c) The Castle Harrow

The tour concluded at the Windermere, Wembley. Another ex-Courage Grade II-listed pub and with three stars on CAMRA’s register and a good place to see how a typical, inter-war suburban pub was planned and fitted-up. Built in 1938-1939, this is a large, red-brick, Dutch-gabled structure with three bars.


The public bar, facing Windermere Avenue, is only used for functions. On the South Kenton station side is a saloon bar with a lounge behind. Original features include the large inner porches, counters, back fittings, wall panelling, cornices, doors between the saloon and lounge and fireplaces.

There is an advertising mirror with a Courage cockerel and a clock, with the shape of the top reflecting the gables outside. The only significant change is an off-sales compartment incorporated into the public bar. The fixed seats are additions and the superstructures on the saloon and lounge counters look like work of the 1950s or 1960s. Fuller’s London Pride is normally served here.

This tour reprised one that we held eight years earlier and it involved the use of multiple bus routes across a large part of north-west London. It is not quite clear how many tourists lasted the full course but every participant had visited some of capital’s most historic pubs.
Jane Jephcote and Kim Rennie