Justifying a monthly pub crawl gets easier when you can call it educational. As the ‘London Heritage Pub Visitors’ Club’, we are on a mission to explore Greater London and learn its warts-and-all history and what better way is there to do this than by visiting the most important watering holes our city has to offer?
We have spent time carefully organising all 217 of CAMRA’s Greater London heritage pubs into manageable crawls. Our routes take ale enthusiasts to all corners of the city and give insight into the stories behind some of our favourite establishments. In documenting our experiences in the London Drinker, we hope they will provide the reader with some inspiration to add a historical twist to their next pub visit!
Please note: we only have space for a brief synopsis, so give our website or Instagram a visit for more information!
The crawl that we are featuring in this article is as follows:
1. The Salisbury (1892)
2. The Lamb & Flag (1623)
3. The Coal Hole (1903-4)
4. The Seven Stars (1602)
5. The Cittie of Yorke (1923-4)
This crawl is a great one to start with, totalling around 28 minutes of walking and five delightful pubs. It begins near the tourist trap of Leicester Square but quickly whisks you away through the quiet heart of legal London, ending up next to Chancery Lane.
The trip starts off with a pugilistic theme. London in the 17th to 19th centuries was home to its fair share of bare-knuckle boxing bouts. The first pub (originally the Salisbury Stores) got its name from Robert Gascoyne-Cecil, the third Marquis of Salisbury, whose family leased the pub. Prior to this however, the pub started off as the Coach & Horses in 1694 and then changed its name to Ben Caunt’s Head in 1866. Mr Caunt (1815-61) was a former landlord and was famous as the heavyweight bare-knuckle boxing champion of England. The pub as it stands today gets busy with tourists but has some nice original features, including the bar’s long curved mahogany counter.
Next on the list is the Lamb & Flag, tucked away on Rose Street. This place is reputed to have had its first licence in 1623, making it the oldest drinking premises in Covent Garden. The first mention of it as a proper pub though is in 1772 when it was known as the Cooper’s Arms. Either way, this place is punchy (pardon the pun) on multiple counts. Bare-knuckle boxing bouts would take place in the 17th and 18th centuries on the cobbled street out front, or more commonly in the back room, earning the establishment its nickname of ‘the Bucket of Blood’. Another high-profile violent exchange took place on this hidden street too, with the first Poet Laureate of England, John Dryden, receiving a severe beating here in 1679. Allegedly the perpetrators were thugs hired by the second Earl of Rochester, with whom Dryden had a long-standing feud. He is commemorated in the name of the upstairs room – the Dryden Room.
Third on the crawl is the Coal Hole, which was once a coal cellar for the Savoy Hotel down the road. Its name is reputed to be related to this one-time role, as well as being a watering hole for London’s coal heavers. It is recommended to try and seat yourselves on the mezzanine floor from where you can take in the view of large white friezes depicting ladies carrying fruits of the vine. Perhaps these grape motifs are related to the fact that this pub’s 1948 licence was for wine and spirits only. It’s a cosy spot to have a drink and food before heading to legal London.
The Seven Stars is a fabulous pub with some interesting quirks. Set in the street behind the Royal Courts of Justice, the pub has a legal theme, with the room to the left of the main entrance nicknamed ‘the Wig Box’, containing legal wigs in a cosy snug. The pub is quaint – the side opposite the Wig Box is an extension – giving you an idea of how tiny this place originally was), but is packed full of character. One of its best quirks is its legacy of mascot cats. The current cat is named Clement Atlee, who was preceded by Peabody and Ray Brown before that. Both of the old cats are pictured in portraits on the wall; Mr Brown, for example, is wearing a tasteful legal ruffle collar. Notable patrons include Charles Dickens, who is thought to have used this pub as a model for ‘the Magpie & Stump’ as featured in the Pickwick Papers, and William Shakespeare whose performances took place nearby in Middle Temple.
Finally, we stumble to the Cittie of Yorke, operated by Sam Smith’s. According to CAMRA, a pub has stood on this site since 1430 and although this is a relatively recent rebuild, the character inside is very special, earning its accolade as a pub with an interior of national importance. By this stage you may be feeling the effects of four pubs but try to take in the huge barrels above the bar, the triangular-shaped fireplace, and sneak yourself a spot in one of the private cubicles to enjoy a prudently priced pint.
James Arwyn-Jones