For this afternoon’s little sortie I headed east to visit another Good Beer Guide pub that I’ve never been to before, the Sir Sydney Smith in Shadwell (E1 8JP). I travelled by District Line to Tower Hill and walked along Royal Mint Street, parallel to the DLR. On the way I came across another pub that I’d never visited called the Artful Dodger (E1 8LG). This is not its original name; it had previously been called the Crown & Seven Stars. The original plasterwork symbol is still in place high up on the frontage, along with the legend ‘Warehouse, Wholesale and Retail’. The pub is a detached four story brick building, with the front painted pale green and buff yellow.
Going inside, I could see it was a basic locals pub with a central three sided bar, wooden flooring and low wood wall panelling and a strip of gold decoration above the bar and side window. The bar did not look promising, with a single Doom Bar clip at an angle. I asked the person behind the bar if it was on. She wasn’t sure but, on pulling the handle, something came out. ‘Yes’ she replied; ‘OK, I’ll go for a pint please’. To give her full due she pulled some off and, as she hadn’t served any that day, offered me a taster. I accepted and it was actually quite good. Not bad for London at £4.40.
Taking my pint to the end of the bar, I passed several locals. I pulled out a high chair to sit on and one of them warned me it might collapse as it has been put to one side. A strut was missing but I replied that I didn’t weigh that much so it should hold me alright. I chatted to the locals who told me about the history of the pub and others in the area. The barmaid also showed an interest in what I was doing so I showed her a copy of the London Drinker. In my 1991 pub guide it said the pub was licensed in 1904, was closed for several years and reopened in 1985. It is now Grade II listed. There were plans for up to twelve real ales to be served; I wonder if that ever happened.
Having spent a very pleasant forty minutes or so supping my beer and chatting, I bade farewell and was wished cheerio by most of the other customers. I continued to Dock Street and soon came to the Sir Sydney Smith, formerly the Pepper Pot House, the Pepperpot and Sir Sidney Smith (with an ‘I’). It is a narrow four storey brick building, sandwiched between two new buildings. The pub exterior is dark green with cream between the windows and a shade above. Half way up the building the pub name is depicted in tile work, with a golden eagle above the name and, at the very top, a Truman sign.
Going inside it was fairly busy, so obviously popular. It is all quite traditional with a centre bar serving the front area only although, at one time, it probably served the lounge to the rear as well. The decor was all rather dark, with dark green and exposed brick walls, a dark blue and black ceiling and a wood floor. On the wall at the front is a large gold framed mirror. There are a lot of high stools, some benches and old furniture. At the bar I had the choice of three ales: Belhaven Deuchars IPA, Ruddles and Redemption Kazbek. I went for the last of these at £4.90 (not realising there was a CAMRA discount) but it was very good. The bar back is quite impressive with clear mirrors and four shelves completely full with bottles in individual spaces. By now it was half past five and the pub was getting busier all the time.
On leaving I retraced my steps and carried on to Leman Street under the railway bridges. This took me past the Brown Bear to the Grade II-listed Oliver Conquest (E1 8EU). I had this marked down as having two ales but the pumps had no clips on them and the barman said they has stopped doing any cask ale. I carried on for a short way, coming to a modern piazza with two black horses. I thought that the pub here, the Running Horse (E1 8FU), would do, having been here five years ago. It is a large L shaped pub with a full glass frontage. The bar is decorated in attractive tilework with brass pipework above. The decor is very complex, with a rough wood floor, cream brick walls and a dark green ceiling. There is mainly high seating, stools and benches but it has a raised area with normal low seating. The bar was a bit of a result with three ales on: Sambrook’s Drop Kick, Five Points Best and, the one I went for, Five Points Railway Porter. It was £5.20 and was good. The barman kindly gave me a taste first in case I didn’t like it. This is a Mosaic Pub & Dining outlet and is worth a visit, although it is busy.
From here I headed to Aldgate East for the tube back to Waterloo. OK, yes, I did pop into the Waterloo Tap for a very good pint of Iron Pier Cast Iron Stout at £4.70. A good finish to the afternoon.
Clive Taylor