For my afternoon out this time I took the train to Richmond and, as before, my aim was to visit some pubs that I had not been to for some years.
Exiting Richmond station I turned left, down George Street to an alleyway on the left called Church Court. Halfway along is the Angel & Crown, a Fuller’s pub fronted with plenty of greenery. The pub dates back to 1897 when it was rebuilt, possibly after a fire.
Inside, it is all quite traditional with a single dark wood bar to the left hand side and a light wooded floor with black stone around the bar. The walls are of exposed brick with some cream framed pictures to the rear and a cream ceiling with a higher wooden part to the front. Tucked away to the rear is a cosy little snug with a brick fireplace. To the front of the bar, by the squared windows, is some high seating but, more traditionally, there is a long brown bench going back to the rear. At the bar there was a range of Fuller’s ales: ESB, Oliver’s Island, Hophead and London Pride. I went for the latter, costing £4.95, and it was very good. There were a few customers in, making it a very pleasant start.
Heading back to the main road I crossed over to another alley, Brewers Lane, and, halfway along, there is the Britannia. I had been to this pub twenty years ago but I can’t say that I remember much about it. On this occasion however it seemed empty of custom and seeing that the tables to the rear were all set up for eating, I decided to carry on to the Green.
Turning left, I passed by the Cricketers and made for the Prince’s Head, another Fuller’s pub, in the far corner. This is quite an attractive three storey building, dating from around 1740, with a bay window at the front. It is quite traditional inside with a central three sided bar and seating all around, including leather upholstered benches at the front and side. The walls have two thirds high cream and pale blue wood panelling. Above are old framed pictures under the low pale ceiling. The seats in the bay window give good views out across the Green.
This time I had the choice of London Pride, ESB, Red Fox, Hophead and a guest ale from Windsor & Eton, Knight of the Garter. I went for the Red Fox at £5 but, sadly, it wasn’t very good. There is a story that, in 1911, the licensee was convicted of allowing ‘disorderly women’ into the pub as an attraction to soldiers. His successor solved this problem by banning women altogether. Tut tut. There were a few people in but it was not overly busy.
On leaving, I proceeded along the alleyway to King Street, passing the Old Ship, and around the corner into Water Lane to check out the Waterman’s Arms. This was a pub which I last came to on my nine pub crawl of Richmond back in 2012, between Christmas Day and New Year. In those days it was a good down to earth local Young’s pub. I knew that it had reopened recently after renovation and, as I approached, it did look rather different. Through the windows I could see that it had, in fact, changed completely and now looked like a bright new restaurant. There were some pumps on the bar but nothing badged up so I decided not to bother. Instead, I turned around and headed back to the Old Ship, another Young’s pub.
This wood fronted pub dates back to 1735 and in the 1780’s it expanded into the pub next door. The pub front was adorned with a superb floral display. Three double doors lead inside, albeit only two were in use, taking one to either side of the two sided bar in the centre. This pub is also very traditional with a wood floor, wall panelling and leather benches around the walls, a wood fireplace and old pictures depicting local scenes.
The front windows are leaded and have images of sailing ships on two of them. It was fairly busy as I stood at the bar and, after some minutes, I had not been served. It appeared that all the action was on the other side so I moved around there. I opted for the Young’s Bitter (AKA ‘London Original’) at £5.05; it was good.
Around the other side was a group of guys, a couple of whom I recognised. I asked them if it was a CAMRA meeting and it turned out that it was a party from the Redhill branch also having a day out in Richmond. I was duly invited to join them for a very pleasant half hour before they left. I remember eating here in the days when they served a choice of home made food (cottage pie, lasagne and such like) from large dishes, with a slice being cut out of the dish and served. None of your skewered burgers in those days…
I was making my notes when someone on the next table enquired if I was a writer. The gentleman wasn’t English, from Denmark possibly, so I explained all about CAMRA and the London Drinker magazine.
Finishing my beer and bidding farewell, I headed back towards the station intending to try the Tavern Tap which I had quite enjoyed in recent years. Today however it seemed quite busy and there was a notice on the door saying, ’Wait here to be seated’. Looking through the window I could only see one pump badged up so I decided to carry on to the Railway.
This four storey M&B pub sits on a corner near the station and dates back to 1888. It has gone through some changes over the years but, happily, after being an O’Neil’s, it has reverted to its original name. Inside it is quite cavernous with a front angled bar done out in dark green colours, a dark wood floor and red leather benches. It is all very atmospheric with old chandeliers and glass light shades but, for some reason, there was a distinct lack of custom. Anyway, at the bar there was London Pride, Doom Bar, Tribute plus a house ale from St Austell. I asked for the Tribute, but the barmaid informed me that the house ale was at a special price of £3.50. Since it comes from the same brewery as Tribute I said ‘OK, you’ve just talked me into it’ and full credit to her, it was actually very good. This was a satisfying end to my afternoon in Richmond.
It was just a minute’s walk back to the railway station and I was soon on the train going home.
Clive Taylor