Regular pub goers may have noticed that morris dancers like their beer. Indeed, it has been suggested that we dance only as an excuse to go to pubs. Quite wrong: none of us need an excuse. Nevertheless, a morris tour is difficult to distinguish from a pub crawl. As our club, Greensleeves, celebrates its hundredth anniversary this year, we decided on a celebratory tour, using, to quote Messrs Flanders and Swann, that Transport of Delight, ‘the big six-wheeler, scarlet-painted, London Transport, diesel-engined, ninety-seven horsepower omnibus’, although these days, of course, they are electric powered. We didn’t choose just any bus: the number 100 passes some fine and historic pubs as it glides from Shadwell to St Paul’s. In case any London drinker might want to follow us (bells not required), we offer reflections on the beer and pubs we enjoyed.
After a short ride from Shadwell, we debussed for what is literally a star of a pub, Turner’s Old Star. The co-owners’ daughter Katie also proved a star, insisting that we were photographed with her, to which we gladly consented. The pub once belonged to that randy old painter JMW Turner, who installed one of his mistresses to run it. Reconstructed when the pub was renamed in his honour in 1987, the superb interior was enjoyed along with the most eclectic selection of the day’s beers. From Redemption were Victorian Mild, at 6% ABV, stretching the definition of mild, and Big Chief, an American-style IPA with all its hoppiness.
A short walk took us to the Town of Ramsgate, one of the three priceless pubs gracing the Wapping waterfront. A building tracing its origins to 1545, its Grade II listing is due to its interior of ceiling beams, panelling and glass screens. We were delighted to find Harvey’s Sussex Best in excellent condition, alongside regulars Doom Bar and Young’s Original (still known to south London drinkers as ‘Ordinary’).
Next came the joker in this pack of pubs: the Dickens Inn, opened as long ago as 1976. OK, its origin as a warehouse gives it some claim to antiquity but it is simply a developer’s view of what a tourist might expect of an Olde Englishe Pub. Its saving grace was an excellent paved area to fulfil our mission of dancing at each stop. A range of decent beers was available, although the pub’s website is shy of naming them, suggesting that they change often.
There was then a bit of a yomp to the next stop, but every yard was worthwhile to reach the White Swan in Aldgate. A welcome survival amongst the brick and glass obelisks of the modern cityscape, this Shepherd Neame pub serves Master Brew and Bishop’s Finger. Behind the bar, our host waxed lyrical about its multiple previous uses including having been the Half Moon Theatre, while we drank in the darkly panelled decor along with its excellent beer.
The 100 bus terminates at St Paul’s and we made a short diversion to dance on St Peter’s Steps, rewarded by an exuberant audience of Manchester tourists. Our destination was the Cockpit. A cosy, welcoming pub, it’s our favourite watering hole when we busk at the annual Lord Mayor’s Show. Its site has seen many uses since the 13th century and it still has tunnels in which Catholic priests hid. The Cockpit itself dates from ‘only’ the 1840s and was London’s last legal cockfighting venue. Harvey’s Sussex Best was once again enjoyed.
Here a fine day out concluded happily, characterised by all that drew us into the morris: audience appreciation, good fellowship and fine beer, in pubs almost as old as our dances themselves. Today’s side sincerely hopes that our successors will enjoy a 200 bus tour in 2126!
Morris dancing is an English tradition that has been performed for at least 500 years. Greensleeves Morris Men were formed in 1926 in Central London and moved to Wimbledon in 1980. We perform dances with hankies, stick and longswords. As well as providing some exercise, morris dancing is a social thing and we have great club camaraderie. If any London drinker feels tempted to explore further, we offer a chance to try a dance and (over a free pint) learn more about the morris at our base in Wimbledon. We practise at the South Wimbledon Community Association Hall, 78 Victory Road SW19 1HN at 8pm on Friday evenings. This is usually followed by a pint or two in the Sultan. If you are interested in joining us for our second century, please contact our Bagman, Tommy Cooling, at greensleevesmorrismen@gmail.com. We also have a website https://greensleevesmorris.org.uk/.
Tommy Cooling